There are many feet you can use that have better contact with the feed dogs, in place of this horrible recessed quarter inch foot the machine comes with. Keep in mind that the feed dogs on this machine are 9mm apart to accommodate all the decorative stitches. This can make smaller piecing that only touches one feed dog more difficult, however, I have not found this to be an issue as I don’t piece with tiny pieces but its worth considering depending on what projects you are interested in doing, and what’s more important for you.
Choose any foot that you feel gives you better contact with the feed dogs for your project. The seam guide foot has better contact so if small piecing is your thing, have a play around with this in the shop and see if it helps.
I purchased the Pfaff foot book on Ebay and found it an interesting read as it gives you some alternative uses for some of the feet. The manual really should contain this information but at least this is available to buy.
I now exclusively use Aurifil thread (orange spool) for piecing and quilting, this produces little lint which means less time spent cleaning the bobbin and my thread cutter works most of the time. The thread is so thin that it means that I can fit loads of thread on to a bobbin and when the machine tells me my bobbin is low, it actually is low.
I recently mocked up another Kaleidoscope piece to see if experience has taught me anything about bulky seams. It turns out that I have learnt quite a lot over the past year and a half. Using my more stable quilting foot I now begin my seams a quarter if an inch in and back stitch then forward stitch to prevent the machine chewing up my fabric. The thinner thread I now use helps massively with thicker seams, as does pressing each seam as I go and spray starching each piece to give extra stability. (I do all of these things as standard now, and would do on any machine as it produces better quality results in my opinion.)
I think when I first made my kaleidoscope quilt I was trying to open each seam as I went along but I should have pressed them all to one side and opened just the final seam. No problems with this at all now. As you can see from the pictures below.
Here are the 6 intersecting seams that I want to put together:
Here is a quick video of me joining the seams and the end result:
A couple of smaller stitches over the bulk but the machine didnt have to much trouble this time due to preparing the fabric properly.
and the front:
Free Motion quilting. Spring motion vs Sensormatic
When I first began to FMQ, I didn’t like the sensormatic mode at all. I thought the machine didn’t like the bedsheet I was using but that had nothing to do with it. I just didnt reduce the pivot height.
During the first 3 months of this year I got a lot of FMQ practice in. I successfully managed feathers and swirls. The new open toe sensormatic foot I purchased made life much easier and I actually prefer this mode now to spring motion as you don’t get the hopping of the fabric and the needle just glides over the fabric effortlessly.
If you're thinking about purchasing this machine make sure you either buy this foot seperatly, or check that you get the open toe version with the machine.(I have been told they are selling these in place of the old foot with the machine but be sure to check this.) My initial problems with this mode stemmed from my own inexperience. Its essential that you adjust the pivot height to match your quilt thickness otherwise you will get skipped stitches. -2 or -3 normally works for me.
If you're getting skipped stitches and you’ve already adjusted the pivot height try going slower when creating curves and try setting the speed on the machine so its one less thing to think about when you are trying to control your feet and the movement of the quilt at the same time. Also, if your thread is cross wound lie your spool down in the horizontal position and use a spool cap.
Well thats pretty much all I have left to say about this machine. Yes there is a learning curve, but trust me it is worth it! and yes the manual is rubbish on detail but the online community and links I have provided in previous posts on this machine have made life much easier, and there are many, many happy people out there with this machine, its normally just the unhappy people who post topics about it!
:-)
Thank you Dana for this excellent wrap up review. Really appreciate the technical issues you have tested and your even handed and honest assessment specially with a busy family to take care of. Love the FMQ designs you have done - you are very talented indeed!
ReplyDeleteI'm torn between the Pfaff QE4 and the Bernina 550QE which is on special in Australia until end of August for $2999 ( RRP is stated as $3999). Would really appreciate hearing what other's may be thinking about the two.
I've had mine for some time now, I've always had apfaff machines
ReplyDeleteI'll finish......as I said I've always had Pfaff machines and loved them however I don't love this one... It's OK but I wouldn't buy another, it's had a new top tension part fitted already and the stitches themselves are a little erratic... And I hate the whiney noise it makes.
ReplyDeleteMy personal opinion is the pfaff EQ4 is ok for a beginner quilter, using all the practical workaround explained above. I managed to tame mine for free motion quilting. I also appreciate the fact that some of us only have a limited budget for a sewing machine. There are machines out there, that won't give you these issues. You get what you pay for. Just make sure you are not buying features you don't want.
ReplyDeleteP.S. For Jay Potterton:
ReplyDeleteIf your budget permits, check out the new bernina 7 series this fall. Or the new Babylock Crescendo. They have everything a quilter could wish for. Finally!
I have the Pfaff Expression 2- how do you find the needle threader on the 4? I just can't get it to work with my aurifil and end up threading it manually! But I am happy with it otherwise, it is the best machine I've ever owned and the first "proper" make. I did a review of my sewing machine before this one so I'm probably overdue a review of this one also
ReplyDeleteIf I can find a solution to the dip in front of the bobbin case, I am all set for patchwork sewing.
ReplyDeleteUsing a quilt table level with the sewing surface makes the bobbin case inaccessible and to have the bobbin case accessible means I am sewing on an uneven surface.
The dealer suggested I tape it! Really? I learned more about the machine from this article than the dealer. Thank you Dana!
Does any one have a tip to deal with this bobbin case when sewing patchwork?
Yes its a bit of a design flaw isnt it, I got my husband to cut a hole in our table,and rest the machine on a piece of wood underneath with adjustable screws so I could raise it by turning the screws as and when I need to access the bobbin case....I soon got sick of doing that, so now I just keep it slightly raised, this means its not completely flush with the table but it works for me and I dont find it bothersome as the adjustment is ever so slight. I would have got my husband to chizel a nook around the bobbin area for easier access but as the table isnt made of real wood I would worry the jagged edges would catch on my fabrics. This might be a good question to post in this usergroup Im a member of http://groups.yahoo.com/group/quiltexpression4/. Dana
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